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Sturgeon's House
Ulric

Kalashnikov pattern construction and customization: reasonable changes that won't make Mikhail turn over in his grave.

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36 hours. Machinery cover has been corrected and used as a basis for the sub assembly that contains the rear sight base, rear sight apertures, ball detent, rear night sight, rear night sight plunger, roll pin, and rear sight pivot screw.

 

Not shown in the mostly finished bolt. Modeling AK style bolts is always a massive pain in the ass. The Galil Bolt, while interchangeable in the carrier with an AKM bolt, has a substantial number of critical differences when it comes to correctly modeling one. This means that my AKM bolt blueprints are not as helpful as other parts have been.

 

As far as the model goes, some of the sub-assemblies have multiple configurations that allow you to show the rifle set to either the 300m, 500m, or night sights, and the stock folded or deployed.

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41 Hours

 

Left side selector lever, FCG axis pins, trigger, grip screw and grip screw nut. Further detail added to the right side selector. I also changed the focal length for the perspective view.

 

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44 hours.

 

Bullet guide, recoil spring guide assembly, right side selector lever assembly, helical locking surfaces in receiver to match the bolt, and minor dimensional accuracy improvements (mostly force matching non critical angles).

 

Changed up the render angles for fun.

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Not yet. I'm leaning towards 5.56x45 for simplicity reasons, as well as ammunition selection, but other options are still on the table. Things based on 5.56 or 7.62x39 would be the easiest in terms of bolt face diameter and magazines.

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On 3/20/2018 at 3:18 AM, Ulric said:

 

An interesting point of note; the cross pin hole in the receiver and the hinge block appear to be intentionally misaligned. The purpose is to use the 6mm diameter spring pin to tension the hinge block to the receiver by drawing it forward. I used a similar concept several years ago on a rifle chassis that I designed and prototyped. I needed a method of connecting the butt to the main chassis section that would be very rigid, and be forward compatible with a folding mechanism. What I ended up with was a series of tapered surfaces with the cross pin holes offset by 0.005". I continue to be very impressed with the results of that design to this day.

 

Bit late, but I just found something that reminded me of this - woodworkers call that "draw pegging"

http://www.chaplinoak.co.uk/draw-pegging/

 

Wood dowels rather than spring pins, but the concept is the same

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50 hours. Left and right steel magazine body stampings, knurled bolt knob, hammer.

 

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Magazine details. Still need the feed lip reinforcements, front and rear locking tabs, and internals.

 

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On 6/22/2018 at 12:11 AM, Ulric said:

So, a little quality time with a HAAS VF2SS and Bridgeport knee mill later, and my 80% Galil receiver is now 100%. The only reason for using the Bridgeport was for simpler operations that would have taken much longer to set up on the HAAS. Will post pics soon.

 

Happy 'Murica day everybody, I spent it building a rifle, smoking cigars, and drinking bourbon (in that order).

 

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Still need to press the gas block into place and double check it's alignment, rivet some things into place, and then drill some holes. I am planning on giving it a park and paint.

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Edit: Added RK-62 manual too it's not even 13 megabytes and much better than the R4 one. I'll pull more and add them here in new posts and in documents dump. 

 

Uploading you an R4 shop manual 70 something megabytes and digging around to see if I can find other good info hopefully with dims and stuff.

 

I'll also post other stuff I have... If anyone has requests please let me know, I have a disturbingly large collection of manuals with actual dimensioned drawings etc.

 

Including the one for the RP-46 kit which is just awesome IMO. 

 

I'll edit this post and the link will be in the bottom in probably an hour.

 

EDIT: (LINK FOLLOWS)

 

R4 Manual 72 megabytes

 

EDIT 2: (AS ABOVE)

 

RK-62 Armorer Manual 1985 Version (I don't speak Finnish but there's dimensions etc)

 

 

 

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Park and paint, the correct finish for a Kalashnikov (Unless it's an M76, then give that bitch the darkest bluing job that you can)

Fun fact, parkerizing solutions smell like Dr. Pepper! Dat phosphoric acid, yo.

 

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24 minutes ago, Jeeps_Guns_Tanks said:

That's so fucking cool!

 

Does bluing offer any actual protection?

 

The protection level varies on the type of bluing that you use. Bluing is a passive layer of ferric oxide, so it will resist surface rust to a degree. Overall, it's not very good at resisting corrosion on its own. Rust bluing can be a very durable coating, though.

 

Parkerizing is a very easy coating to apply. There are several different kinds that give you different colors. Zinc phosphate is a classic for many military arms, as well as manganese phosphate, which is what I use. There is also an iron phosphate, but I don't know how common it is.

 

It's a very fast process as well. The parts take color is seconds, and get to a desirable color in a matter of minutes. Unfortunately, there is still a lot of reaction occurring at this stage, which means the coating isn't quite as deep as it could be. I accidentally left the parts in for too long and they turned slightly purple. They weren't even in there for 10 minutes. The colour would almost perfectly match plum AK furniture.

 

Substrate prep is pretty simple. Cleaning the parts followed by glass bead or sand blasting is usually enough. You can chemically strip them again if you want to be very safe about it. It's usually not necessary if you keep everything clean and wear nitrile gloves. Reducing the time between surface prep and parkerizing helps, too.

 

After the parts come out, I rinse them with near boiling water, then dry them off. It's really nice don't this in Colorado as our relative humidity is basically non-existent, so things dry fast. A little bit of compressed air helps get the trouble spots cleaned out as well. You could always bake then out in an oven, as well. Once they are bone dry, I apply the paint.

 

An alternate is to go with the natural finish. In which case, you still rinse it in hot water, but then you submerge it in a post treatment oil to drive the moisture out and saturate the pores. It's way easier than paint, but you have to periodically reoil the surface. I did a natural finish on an Sa vz. 26 today as well, and it turned out perfect.

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