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The M4 Sherman Tank Epic Information Thread.. (work in progress)

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I just watched a 1942 movie called Saboteur, directed by Alfred Hitchcock, it was pretty good. 

 

On a side note, it has to be cheaper to keep a tank running, at least a WWII tank, than say a WWII airplane, right?    Airplanes have inspections and certifications that have to be redone, once a tank is running, keeping it that way seems like it would be much easier, as long as you have the equipment to deal with the weight of various tank parts.  

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I've been slacking a bit, work got stressful, for stupid reasons, and trying to edit images when tired means I fall asleep while doing it. I did finish this one. 

GM6046rearimproved-FLAT-HUGE-SMALLER-160

 

I've been working on a cleanup on the R974C-4 cross section but it has been very time consuming and still needs several hours of work. 

 

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@Jeeps_Guns_Tanks  Do you by any chance have a clear picture of the rear hull plate and exhaust system of a M4A2(76)W without a deflector? 

 

The detail of the radiators in the hull overhang is what I'm mostly after.....A friend who normally builds aircraft has turned his hand to a Sherman, but the Italeri kit he bought doesn't have the correct rear hull for a M4A2, let alone the exhausts or radiators, but he's a detail fanatic so he will want to correct it! 

 

His thread is here:  http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235031387-135-m4a2-76mm-wet-sherman/

 

I've done my best to help out but images of this area seem to be very scarce.....There used to be at least one good image out there, because I used it when I built my own 1/76 Tarawa Sherman, but I'm ****** if I can find it now!

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I do think there are more in the G104, I just haven't got that deep. 

 

Interesting fact, the A2 the Radiator was exposed behind the deflector, so it was really vulnerable to damage, a German with a normal rifle could just walk up and shoot a hole in it, or just jam a bayonet into the fins and tubes. I know I've got photos of this somewhere.  The way the A3 did it, the Radiator was fully protected, being set back further in the hull. 

 

M4A2-radiator-install-late-II.png

M4A2-radiator-install-late-M38B2.png

 

 

N4A2-late-radiator-install.png

 

M4A2-radiator-install-early.png

 

 

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On 2/27/2018 at 8:17 PM, Jeeps_Guns_Tanks said:

On a side note, it has to be cheaper to keep a tank running, at least a WWII tank, than say a WWII airplane, right?    Airplanes have inspections and certifications that have to be redone, once a tank is running, keeping it that way seems like it would be much easier, as long as you have the equipment to deal with the weight of various tank parts.  

For the most part, "yes".  Both still deteriorate at a frightening rate when not used, but armor is much easier to deal with, as it does not fall from a great height when it fails.

 

You need a lot of specialized equipment to deal with either, unless your collection consists solely of a Daimler scout car and a L4 Grasshopper.

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https://andrewbek-1974.livejournal.com/701412.html

Results of Sherman being hit by German shell (possibly 88 mm). NSFW

Spoiler

 

 

Quote

   On August 13, 1944, Sherman, named "l'Ourcq" from the 501 regiment of the Free French forces, was advancing through the forest of Orne department when a German shell (presumably 88 mm) hit it. The driver Lafon managed to take the tank back and leave the tank, same for the eighteen-year-old gunner Duilon. The shell struck the turret above and to the right of the gun mask, next to the patch of the additional armor, flew through the whole turret, smashed the radio station, cut almost in half the commander Boucle and decapitated Kadio (loader). This was the sixteenth attack of Boucle, whose brother was killed during the English attack on Mers-el-Kebir, and a native of Peru, Cadio loved poetry and exhilarated everyone in Libya, citing Cyrano de Bergerac. Despite the danger of shelling, the driver's assistant, Vercher, a Spaniard and a veteran of the Civil War, returned to the tank in an attempt to put out the fire and help crew members, but everything is clearly visible on the video

 

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Yeah, that's some hardcore stuff, I'm glad it is not in color... I've seen stills like that, but never video.  The tank looks like a late production large hatch M4A2.  

 

The tank was probably repairable, though might need a new turret, I don't know that they would bother at that point in the war.  I like the Lee based M31 ARV. 

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7 hours ago, Meplat said:

For the most part, "yes".  Both still deteriorate at a frightening rate when not used, but armor is much easier to deal with, as it does not fall from a great height when it fails.

 

You need a lot of specialized equipment to deal with either, unless your collection consists solely of a Daimler scout car and a L4 Grasshopper.

@Meplat

 

For a tank I would guess some sort of crane with enough capacity to lift the powertrain, turret and motors would be required for the tank, just off the top of your head, what else? Powerfull welder, heavy-duty cutting torches? How do you even get all the little specialty tools listed in the TM's, make them yourself?

 

 

I would think it would be somewhat similar in that you need a crane for lifting aircraft motors too, is it large size tools, like sockets and wrenches bigger than 1 inch?  

 

Do you time a Merlin or V1710 with a timing light?

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6 hours ago, Jeeps_Guns_Tanks said:

@Meplat

 

For a tank I would guess some sort of crane with enough capacity to lift the powertrain, turret and motors would be required for the tank, just off the top of your head, what else? Powerfull welder, heavy-duty cutting torches? How do you even get all the little specialty tools listed in the TM's, make them yourself?

 

 

I would think it would be somewhat similar in that you need a crane for lifting aircraft motors too, is it large size tools, like sockets and wrenches bigger than 1 inch?  

 

Do you time a Merlin or V1710 with a timing light?

Oh.. OH this post!

 

Yes, a common 3 ton engine crane would do.  Pallets to take the mill and engine. "Cribbing is always your friend" when dealing  with tanks.

Also, HUGE wrenches. And you will break them.  Harbor Freight, cause  Snap-On will tell you to fuck off after the second swap. I have personally experienced this.

You do end up making a lot of tooling.  You'd best be a semi-competent machinist, cause you will be making tools, and parts, and fixtures, etc...

 

Learn to work on and repair forklifts, because YOU WILL NEED ONE.  It will be your most used tool, other than a 12 Oz ball peen, and a 12" crescent wrench.  Buy the BIGGEST you can afford.

 

ALL  engines can be timed with either a light, or a pointer.  If it lights at first crank, who the fuck cares how you timed it?

 

 

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On 3/30/2018 at 10:23 PM, Jeeps_Guns_Tanks said:

My latest improved image. 

 

The interior light may seem humble, but I get a fair number of searches on it. I plan on doing on Sherman tank interior and exterior lighting system post and page soon. 

Shermandomelightpartsimprovedf06-24m4a3g

These still turn up, NIB, if one ever wanted some interesting light fittings. There is a more modern variant that is squared off, that also is occasionally found.

Both are very well made.

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