Jump to content
Sturgeon's House
LoooSeR

General cars and vehicles thread.

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, LoooSeR said:

Omsk made a SPM - a T-80 chassis-based vehicle that fights fire. MoD bought 12 of them. Can carry 25 tons of water/mixture.

 

DKz01kQXUAExjgC.jpg

I want one. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/26/2017 at 5:00 PM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

When calling a shop for a potential body swap, I sometimes get told "We don't  have time to do that."

 

Alright, I guess you don't like money.

Body shops are not at all what they used to be. 

 

You'd be better served by "Bubba" in a pole barn  for that kind of work, than some of the fancy brick-n-mortar places. 

Most "body shops" are for filling out insurance claims and popping hail/parking lot dents. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Meplat said:

Body shops are not at all what they used to be. 

 

You'd be better served by "Bubba" in a pole barn  for that kind of work, than some of the fancy brick-n-mortar places. 

Most "body shops" are for filling out insurance claims and popping hail/parking lot dents. 

As I've noticed with my current situation with the Tacoma.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found a truck that could make a decent donor. 1991 GMC 4x4. Rusted body, decent frame. 5 speed. Two kids bought it and a big RV-camper shell to haul with it. Decided to live on the road and travel the country. 

 

But their lack of internet led to sex. Now they have a kid and have to settle down. 

 

The kids didn't do jack shit as far as maintenance is concerned. Oil was sludge. Clutch was fine but tires were totally bald. They wanted 2400 for the camper and truck. 

 

My counter offer of 1200 was met with surprise. They countered with 1800. 

 

I'm going to hold off. I'd buy it on the cheap knowing I'd have to fix a ton of shit. But my frugal tendencies is fighting against my impatience. If I just wait a little longer, I'll find a decent donor. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Screw them they're too fucking cheap to buy rubbers, too fucking stupid to stop any of the eleventy twelve places they'll give them to you free (you don't even have to pretend to be a gay teen prostitute at like 98% of them though it does always make the interaction more likely to turn hilarious by at least 43%), and they're too stupid to realize once you've been traveling homeless ppl in a camper shell you actually owe whoever you talk into taking it at least $250 for their taking it off your hands (tyvek suits and hanta virus boosters are expensive god damnit!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/8/2017 at 4:24 PM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

Found a truck that could make a decent donor. 1991 GMC 4x4. Rusted body, decent frame. 5 speed. Two kids bought it and a big RV-camper shell to haul with it. Decided to live on the road and travel the country. 

 

But their lack of internet led to sex. Now they have a kid and have to settle down. 

 

The kids didn't do jack shit as far as maintenance is concerned. Oil was sludge. Clutch was fine but tires were totally bald. They wanted 2400 for the camper and truck. 

 

My counter offer of 1200 was met with surprise. They countered with 1800. 

 

I'm going to hold off. I'd buy it on the cheap knowing I'd have to fix a ton of shit. But my frugal tendencies is fighting against my impatience. If I just wait a little longer, I'll find a decent donor. 

Offer $500.00 , a package of diapers and a can of enfamil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, roguetechie said:

Screw them they're too fucking cheap to buy rubbers, too fucking stupid to stop any of the eleventy twelve places they'll give them to you free (you don't even have to pretend to be a gay teen prostitute at like 98% of them though it does always make the interaction more likely to turn hilarious by at least 43%), and they're too stupid to realize once you've been traveling homeless ppl in a camper shell you actually owe whoever you talk into taking it at least $250 for their taking it off your hands (tyvek suits and hanta virus boosters are expensive god damnit!)

No lie, first time I read this I thought "tires" when I saw "rubbers". 

 

I was gonna ask where the hell I can get tires for free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

No lie, first time I read this I thought "tires" when I saw "rubbers". 

 

I was gonna ask where the hell I can get tires for free.

 

Tires are exciting so i totally get it...

 

I got my wife a set of "new" (95% tread left still even had knobbies around the edges) for $50 a 12 year old netbook and 2 hours of helping the shop owner because one of his guys didn't show up that day....

 

I even got to buy ammunition and gun stuff with the money i didn't spend on tires!

 

Was totally worth it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I bought a truck.

 

22553708_10214310960677717_158346875_o.j

 

22522436_10214310960717718_645958685_o.j

 

22496925_10214310960797720_631152956_o.j

 

1996 GM Sierra. 5.7 L chevy small block with vortec heads. 5 speed manual transmission (I think NV3500). 

 

280k miles on the truck. Owned for 13 years by a mechanic. It has tons of new parts. 

 

22550684_10214310309941449_1905804728_o.

 

Alternator, brake pads, rotors, power steering pump, tie rods and ends, tires (yokohama geolaner A/T), spark plugs, front suspension and struts, etc etc.

 

It's almost too pretty to hack up...

 

Almost.  :anticipation:

 

I began taking some of the interior bits and pieces off. Parts that I could use on my other truck on the interior. 

 

I drove it an hour and a half back home after I bought it. It has a leaky radiator cap. I'm going to drop all the fluids from the engine, trans, differentials, and radiator and change them all out soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

So I bought a truck.

 

22553708_10214310960677717_158346875_o.j

 

22522436_10214310960717718_645958685_o.j

 

22496925_10214310960797720_631152956_o.j

 

1996 GM Sierra. 5.7 L chevy small block with vortec heads. 5 speed manual transmission (I think NV3500). 

 

280k miles on the truck. Owned for 13 years by a mechanic. It has tons of new parts. 

 

22550684_10214310309941449_1905804728_o.

 

Alternator, brake pads, rotors, power steering pump, tie rods and ends, tires (yokohama geolaner A/T), spark plugs, front suspension and struts, etc etc.

 

It's almost too pretty to hack up...

 

Almost.  :anticipation:

 

I began taking some of the interior bits and pieces off. Parts that I could use on my other truck on the interior. 

 

I drove it an hour and a half back home after I bought it. It has a leaky radiator cap. I'm going to drop all the fluids from the engine, trans, differentials, and radiator and change them all out soon.

Change all the heater core fittings.Then make sure it never sees "dex cool" again. 

 

Then drop the sparetire, and make sure the stupid winch GM uses actually works. 

 

Lastly check the wiring for the trailer lamps (if it has it) as GM's do not  handle wacky wiring well. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

My biggest worry is the ABS light that's on. Thinking my speed sensor might be bad in it. Not a hard fix, but I need to buy some jack stands and a jack to do it. 

IIRC those should just have RW ABS. 

 

Otherwise GM ABS on the fronts have a mag sensor and a reluctor that can get cruddy. Turn the wheel to one side, it's like an 8 or 10 mm bolt, pull the mag sensor out and see if it's covered in fuzz. Then repeat for the other side. 

 

That may fix things. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Meplat said:

IIRC those should just have RW ABS. 

 

Otherwise GM ABS on the fronts have a mag sensor and a reluctor that can get cruddy. Turn the wheel to one side, it's like an 8 or 10 mm bolt, pull the mag sensor out and see if it's covered in fuzz. Then repeat for the other side. 

 

That may fix things. 

That's what I'm about to do. If it bothers me more, I'm going to pull the ABS fuse and say to hell with ABS all together. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You won;t miss much. 

 

I bypassed my O2 sensors with a resistor, biggest issue now is keeping the rear tires from chirping at a light.  Auto computers are easy to fool.

 

If you have to pass emissions, a simple relay from Allied will kill the "Check engine" or other lamps at the proper time to fool the government fed drone.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Meplat said:

You won;t miss much. 

 

I bypassed my O2 sensors with a resistor, biggest issue now is keeping the rear tires from chirping at a light.  Auto computers are easy to fool.

 

If you have to pass emissions, a simple relay from Allied will kill the "Check engine" or other lamps at the proper time to fool the government fed drone.. 

 

I'll pull up a fuse diagram tomorrow when there's light to see. I picked up a jack and two jack stands tonight on a trip to home depot. The fiance wants to plant some succulents in the house this winter. I figured while I was there I could abuse my Home Depot card.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

 

I'll pull up a fuse diagram tomorrow when there's light to see. I picked up a jack and two jack stands tonight on a trip to home depot. The fiance wants to plant some succulents in the house this winter. I figured while I was there I could abuse my Home Depot card.

Hit Harbor Freight and get an OBD2 tool.  Spend 100.00. 

 

Then hit the 'net and find out how to bypass said sensor, etc. 

 

Used to do it in Az with a cammed and B&B'd 22R Yota.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ebay has OBD2 tools for a tenth that cost, and they do the same thing. I'd steer clear of the bluetooth ones unless you have a burner phone to run the companion app, the standalone one I have does the job nicely.

 

Ultimate cludge for "check engine" lights is to put together a 555 monostable timer that'll illuminate for a few seconds when the ignition is on, then goes off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will look around for a diagnostic tool. I picked up some door pins for my Chevy (to fix the saggy doors), a jack, some jack stands, a belt for the GM, new air filter for the GM, and will be getting oil and gear oil soon. 

 

I pulled the ABS fuse. Doesn't quite fix the issue. 

 

The truck still has some very slight, very fast, consistent "stutter" under acceleration. It's incredibly faint, and really does feel like the brakes grabbing once ever second or so. I'm thinking it might be the ignition. 

 

But I have a leak coming from the oil pan and the radiator that I'll probably fix before that. The plugs are a year and a half old. May have to replace distributor cap. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×