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Kortedzh cars for his Darkness Master Putin:

(Some footage)

 

 

Quote

   The State Research Center NAMI has started pre-production of a pilot cars of a representative class for the first persons of the state within the framework of the project "Cortege". in the free sale those cars are expected in late 2018-early 2019. This is reported on the website of the Ministry of Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation.

 

Pics:

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I started with the truck I bought when I was 16 years old. A 1995 Chevy Silverado C1500. 

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Bought it used with 150k miles on the odometer. Drove it throughout high school. Left it at the farm when I went to college, and my mother used it as a farm truck and daily driver for the next decade. 

 

This truck is a 2 wheel drive (RWD), with the 5.7L small block TBI and the 4L60E automatic transmission. 

 

I drove it back to Colorado earlier this year (Sept), with a plan. 

 

I knew I wanted to make this a daily driver again. There was a ton to be done. Frame was rusted, engine and transmission had a hard 250k miles on them, steering was bad, suspension was shot, etc etc. The truck has had a good, rough life. My folks don't exactly know the meaning of "preventative maintenance". 

 

But since I live in the West now, I wanted 4x4 capabilities. And I prefer a manual transmission. 

 

Now, the C1500 and K1500 frames are the 2wd and 4wd, respectively, frames for GM. To turn a C1500 frame into a 4x4 vehicle would require major machining and metal work. No more IFS, I'd need a ton of new parts. And at the end, I'd be dropping thousands upon thousands of dollars into a still-rusty frame  that still needed a lot more work. 

 

So I did the only sensible thing in this idiotic plan. I bought a donor vehicle. 

 

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This is a 1996 GMC Sierra, 4x4. There are some differences, but the frames and cabs are the same. I picked it up from a guy who took very good care of the truck. 

 

This truck is a half-gen newer. It features a 5.7L small block, but with vortec heads and a MPFI system (instead of the TBI). It's also a 5 speed manual. 

 

Sadly, the wiring harness was a bit different. The shop I chose ran into a few issues, but took their time and made sure all the electrical stuff worked out. 

 

The plan was to swap my old 1995 cab and bed onto the 1996 frame. 

 

End results below. 

 

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Before the swap, I did the following to the donor vehicle. 

 

New: Alternator, Battery, Spark plugs, belt, radiator, filters, fluids, starter, ignition control module, coil, throttle body gasket,  plug wires, PCV valve, and distributor cap and rotor.

 

I still need to drop the differential fluid, fix a door hinge pin, and eventually put a new fuel pump and fuel injection spider into the truck.

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6 minutes ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

Just ordered a MAF sensor and an EGR valve for the truck. Going to jack up the rear end and check the U-joints finally. Thanks for the tip, @Meplat

You figured out most of it.. I just shotgunned shit I'd seen before. 

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Son of a Bitch.

 

All the weird ignition problems I've had. The stuttering at constant speed. I've replaced so damned much on this engine. Was about to tear the damned manifold off and replace the fuel injection spider. If that wouldn't work, I'd pull the fuel pump and fix that. 

 

I checked the U joints. Everything was solid. I was thinking transfer case, or maybe in the transmission. Is my transmission failing? Fuck, that would be terribly expensive to fix. 

 

Earlier I mentioned that I bought a new EGR valve and a MAF sensor. And that, in a desperate move, I unplugged my old EGR valve wiring harness. The failure mode is a closed valve, so no exhaust gas got into my manifold. 

 

Drove up to Denver, all around with @Ulric and @Collimatrix looking at guns I wanted to buy. And lo' and behold, the damned thing didn't stutter a single iota. 

 

Totally fixed. Fuck me. 

 

Looks like the EGR valve was letting too much exhaust into the intake manifold, fucking up the ratio of oxygen and gasoline. That would cause the intermittent misfires and roughness while going down the road. Because the EGR valve only opens once the engine has warmed to a certain temperature. Which also trends with my issue, because the problem got worse as the engine heated up. 

 

The thing runs like a damned top with the EGR wiring harness unplugged. @Meplat, if that new EGR valve makes the issue come back, I'm just going to leave it unplugged and only plug it in when I need to get emissions tested. Just for show.

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20 hours ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

 

 

Looks like the EGR valve was letting too much exhaust into the intake manifold, fucking up the ratio of oxygen and gasoline. That would cause the intermittent misfires and roughness while going down the road. Because the EGR valve only opens once the engine has warmed to a certain temperature. Which also trends with my issue, because the problem got worse as the engine heated up. 

 

The thing runs like a damned top with the EGR wiring harness unplugged. @Meplat, if that new EGR valve makes the issue come back, I'm just going to leave it unplugged and only plug it in when I need to get emissions tested. Just for show.

EGR is the work of Satan.   Where I could, I always deactivated said nonsense. 

Good to hear you found the issue though.

 

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Put a new EGR valve on the truck. Turns out I've got a bolt that wont thread into the engine to hold the EGR on. I got it in, put the other bolt on, unplugged it, made sure it sealed decently, and left it. I'll plug it up when I need emissions testing.

 

But on an even sadder note, I stuck a new MAF sensor in my truck. 280k miles, figured it was time to replace. 

 

New MAF sensor probably sucked 80 horse power out of the truck, and left 3/4ths the throttle useless. 

 

Old MAF sensor went back in, and now I'm contacting A1 Auto Parts to get a refund.

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30 minutes ago, Jeeps_Guns_Tanks said:

wow so much automotive fail.  The two constants seems to be badly blown head gaskets and never changed oil. 

 

 

Good ones I've personally seen were -

 

-The guy who filled his engine with oil, checking the wrong dipstick.  Amazed that Honda still ran. It was full to the filler cap on the valve cover.

 

 

-The guy who thought power steering fluid would work as brake fluid.

It doesn't.  Made every cup and seal swell like crazy.

 

- the guy who solved a manifold leak, by coating the entire manifold and TBI with kool-seal (elastomer RV roof sealant).

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54 minutes ago, Meplat said:

 

 

 

- the guy who solved a manifold leak, by coating the entire manifold and TBI with kool-seal (elastomer RV roof sealant).

That last one sounds like the "fixes" I've seen personally. 

 

My buddy wants to use some sort of sealer injected into the coolant reservoir on his jeep. I just told him to find the leak first. It could be as simple as a hose. Or just replace a radiator. It's not hard at all, especially on a 2000 Wrangler. 

 

Best I've heard of was a woman who's car was overheating, so she filled the engine with water through the oil filler. Her car was no longer overheating. Mainly because it was no longer running.

 

The best in the list, in my opinion, was the "air freshener" in front of the air filter...

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I'll admit I drove a Toyota hilux through my teens and early twenties, with front brake rotors that looked that bad.  I had to put new pads on every 500 miles, but that's all I even had the money for.  Same truck also leaked gas out of the top (rust) ((in an LA California car!!)) gas tank if you put more than 5 or 6 gallons into it. 

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On 1/3/2018 at 8:14 AM, Xlucine said:

What's with all the tyres with water in? How'd it even get there?

In humid environments, air compressors naturally remove the water from the air. Unless the tank and the lines are drained frequently, you can get a lot of water in the system. 

 

Also, some ag equipment is intended to have fluid filled tires.  I've got a little gizmo that lets me fill my lawn tractor tires with water from a garden hose. Gives it a bit more ground pressure.

If you look at many larger tractor valve stems, you'll see the part that carries the actual Schrader valve can be demounted, allowing the tube/tire to be more easily filled with fluid. (usually a propylene glycol based compound now)

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