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Sturgeon's House

Your Gun Porn Thread


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I went to the range with a friend of mine the other day. It wasn't difficult to decide which rifle to take. While we were there, his AR was having some problems, and we needed some tools to take it do

I found a new paperweight for my desk. This will considerably augment the document anchoring capacity of my 37mm M59 projectile.  

I seem to have acquired something fun  

I was finally able to find a place that actually had a couple boxes of 7.5X55 Swiss. Now I finally have gun food for my impulse buy K31 that I purchased last year. It's the Hornady stuff loaded for Graf & Sons and was perilously expensive at $32 a box.

I've noticed that the PRVI Partizan stuff is available again at a variety of online outfits and I'll probably pick up a hundred rounds or so in the future.

I am so tempted now to bring that K31 up to Alaska as the bear rifle...

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17 hours ago, Donward said:

I was finally able to find a place that actually had a couple boxes of 7.5X55 Swiss. Now I finally have gun food for my impulse buy K31 that I purchased last year. It's the Hornady stuff loaded for Graf & Sons and was perilously expensive at $32 a box.

I've noticed that the PRVI Partizan stuff is available again at a variety of online outfits and I'll probably pick up a hundred rounds or so in the future.

I am so tempted now to bring that K31 up to Alaska as the bear rifle...

Not to be that douche bag guy but, I'm very happy I bought my stocks of gp11 when it was 55 cents a round or less...

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58 minutes ago, roguetechie said:

Not to be that douche bag guy but, I'm very happy I bought my stocks of gp11 when it was 55 cents a round or less...

Yeah. I'm not too concerned though. It seems there are supplies again to be had online that aren't too much more.

5 hours ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

When you're 25 yards away up in a tree and the round separates the spinal cord, it works great!

When you're dealing with a dangerous animal like that, I'd be up a tree too. Your friend is lucky to be alive!

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Just ordered everything I need to build my AK.

A parts kit, from Apex:

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A flat and rivet set, from AK Builder:

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A CHF chrome-lined barrel, from K-VAR:

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I am an idiot and ordered the unthreaded version. Shot K-VAR an email hoping to correct it...

And to spice things up, a classic style Russian laminate wood pistol grip with metal ferrule:

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All told, $717.74 shipped. Jesus, building AKs has gotten expensive! Oh, well, by the time I'm done I hope to have a rifle that looks like a bringback and is a lot higher quality than other rifles in this price bracket.

 

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I'm slowly gathering parts for an AR74 with a DIY bump stock but I'm kinda hung up on how exactly I want to do the lower/what aftermarket magazine insertion and removal cheat I want to copy.

For simplicities sake and my own sanity I'm only going to use Magpul 5.45x39 Ak magazines rather than try to make it fit every Warsaw pact ak74 magazine ever!

Admittedly though, I'll likely be modifying a worst Korean Ak drum to try and make it both lockup and release correctly and make it feed 5.45.

If it doesn't come out a monstrosity I'll post it here.

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I went over to @Ulric's Den of Misfortune and Misdeeds to have a crash course in Solidwerks. 

We put together a follower design for my Spanish Mauser (Aka, "The Shit Mauser"). Hope to get that cut out and installed. Now if we could only take the barrel off and fix the headspace issues. 

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3 hours ago, Ulric said:

@Sturgeon

I hope that you managed to switch the barrel to the threaded one, because the muzzle of that appears to be less than the minor diameter of the threads (if that is a representative picture).

I did, K-Var was super nice. They even made sure I had the correct barrel.

Great bunch of guys to work with.

Those unthreaded barrels are for AK-74 type front sight posts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking of shotguns, I'm going to be picking up one of my grandfather's 1897s this weekend.  I won't be able to do anything about it until early May since I don't think my uni would appreciate me keeping a shotgun on campus.

Anyways, the reason I'm posting is I'm curious of if there's any way I could tell if it's safe to fire without taking it to a gunsmith.  I know some 1897s were chambered for a 2 5/8" shell, so I'd want to know if mine is like that or if it's for 2 3/4".  Any way I could test that?  The gunsmith I got forwarded to after talking around is an hour's drive out and sounds like he's a busy guy, so I wouldn't mind avoiding that hassle if I can.

Question number two is about solidworks.  I've got access to all the Autodesk programs and Mastercam, though Solidworks would cost me $150 if I wanted that.  I don't really like torrenting stuff, so would anyone have any free or less expensive alternatives that come to mind?  I might try pestering a professor of mine about it since a different major is able to get the program for free here.  I've been getting a little more interest lately in how guns work, and messing around with my own designs is always a good way to learn.

In other news, TIL that the Royal Nonesuch guy is just a 20 minute drive from where I'm posting from right now.  For better or for worse, I'd probably be doing a lot of the same stuff he does if given the chance.

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Quick googling tells me that the original 1897s, even the 2 3/4ths ones, don't have chambers compatible with the modern crimp. So you'll either need to get shorter shells or rebore it. I did find a guide on how to check chamber length, though:

Quote

Take a FIRED 2 3/4" hull, make sure the crimp is flared a bit, remove the barrel, and attempt to insert the hull fully in the chamber. If the chamber accepts it, it'll be fine. If it hangs up about 1/4" or less short, then it won't.

That's probably pretty reasonable. Let us know what you find.

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Re-barreling the Lady of the Lake.

 

Sadly, reaming the chamber is a two handed job, so I couldn't get pictures of that. The nice part is, even through I don't have my headspace gauges in yet, that is largely irrelevant for rimmed cartridges. The reamer will cut the seating surface for the rim, I pulled all the measurements of the action, and I know the thickness of the rim on the Go and No Go gauges. All I had to do was make sure that the breech sits the correct distance away from the bolt face.

 

The barrel was finished at 23" and I am planning on profiling it down to something more reasonable. 1 3/8" OD was the only size they had in a 24" long .310 bore. I still need to cut the extractor groove.

 

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Ran by my uncle's a bit ago, will have this guy waiting for me when I'm done with classes this semester.  The thing's got a full choke and my uncle seemed fairly confident that they used 2 3/4" shot with it to blast birds.  Will doublecheck with a fired shell regardless.  I'll probably replace the butt plate too since that rubber is all cracked and dry, but the gun otherwise seems just fine.

 

 

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Found this handy link through google, and I feel safe saying that the 1897 I've got is indeed damascus steel.

Link for in depth site over damascus steel here

 

I did find out that double barreled 12 guage shotgun is actually damascus steel, or more specifically, the laminated steel sort (third pic).  I don't plan to ever shoot that one or the damascus 1897.  I'm wary of the condition of the double barrel regardless and if I've got two 1897s, I'd rather use the one of lesser value.

 

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Edited by ApplesauceBandit
updated comments on damascus steel and the 1897
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