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5 minutes ago, Meplat said:

Check the driveline.  You may have a slip joint getting sloppy, a worn U-joint, or the carriers for the T-case output flanges getting sloppy.


That's my next plan. 


Stuck the new sensor in today, but the issue still occurs. At around 2000 rpm, plus or minus 100 rpm. 


I may ignore it for now and focus on other aspects that need to be worked on. Then after I do the swap (and the "vehicle" is actually licensed) I can take it somewhere and see if they can narrow it down. I know a few decent shops in town. My limited knowledge isn't seeing anything jump out at me. 


The truck currently has no plates, insurance, or registration.

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Some stuff I took this past weekend.            

Screw them they're too fucking cheap to buy rubbers, too fucking stupid to stop any of the eleventy twelve places they'll give them to you free (you don't even have to pretend to be a gay teen prostit

I've had a similar "thrum", one was caused by a worn slip-joint, the other was a U-joint that went tits up.


If greasing the bits makes it go away it narrows the search. Given the slip-joint issue was on a M-37, I decided to just keep it fudged full of Lucas XHD grease, since it rarely saw 55 MPH.

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On 10/25/2017 at 7:25 PM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

I'll give it a shot after I install the new coil and ignition control module. That'll be next weekend's project. But definitely need to make sure the U joints are good. 


In the meantime, Roadkill.





I like Roadkill, but their junk is my "daily driver". 

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3 minutes ago, Meplat said:

I like Roadkill, but their junk is my "daily driver". 

That's probably why it's so relatable to most greaseheads. They aren't playing around with supercars or casually dropping 30k into a project over a week or two. They use trash on trash and make it run.

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8 minutes ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

That's probably why it's so relatable to most greaseheads. They aren't playing around with supercars or casually dropping 30k into a project over a week or two. They use trash on trash and make it run.

For ~2/3 years I was happily tooling around Phoenix in a '53 M38A1 with the fullr adio set in the back.


Zero to 50 in never, but wow was it fun to curbstomp truckers running linear amps with it's huge fucking boat anchors.  switch to "high " and listen to the engine strain to provide power for the big transmitter, and near three meter whip. Still amazed the FCC never got me, but I was  very selective.


Also, it had a siren. That was fun as well.

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On 10/20/2017 at 3:52 PM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

Fuel filter replaced.Transmission fluid replaced. 


Then I turned the key. 


Solenoid clicking nonstop. Try again. Try a third time. 


Nothing. Check the power windows and locks. Super weak. 


Go to jump the truck, my cable heat up VERY fast. And they aren't cheap. That tells me it's pulling a huge amperage. 


Went back to the truck. Power locks are hardly moving. No more solenoid clicking. 


Looks like my battery is toast. 


I'm so lucky i "inherited" 2 sets of jumper cables my grandpa made of arc welding lead wire when he worked at Geneva Steel...


One set is about 35 feet the other... 350 (thanks for the $3000 jumper cables geneva LOL)


Was so nice during jet ski season having my cj-5 nice and dry above the waterline and jumpstarting a jet ski. Only having one set of leads trying to slip and shock the piss out of you is nice.


They're in my gun case I'm using to ferry the don't leave home without them kit I'm checking to fly with me when i move to North Carolina next week. 


(Long story involving me being a crazy sonofabitch, having nothing to lose, and in a single 3 sentence text message watching the biggest most important relationship in my life detonate so fantastically that it's not even safe to / worth getting angry over.)

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I think this might have fixed it. 


Pulled the ignition coil and control module from the truck this morning. I got the new parts in the mail yesterday. 


The coil and module were OEM, stock. That means they have 280,000 miles on them. I had to drill out the rivets holding the coil in place. But I got the bracket apart, cleaned everything else, assembled with the new hardware and put it back in the truck. Half an hour, tops.


Put everything back together and made some runs around the neighborhood. Couldn't feel the weird stutter anymore. And if it was there, the road bumps were just as bad so I didn't notice it.





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Well, I pulled the trigger. 


Dropped the GMC off at a 4x4 custom shop. Found them after being told "no" by 8 different shops. One phone call and the owner goes, "Hell yeah, we specialize in stupid ideas." 


Gonna drop the Chevy off this week sometime this week. They'll do it within my budget, even. 

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On 10/28/2017 at 11:25 AM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

I think this might have fixed it. 


Pulled the ignition coil and control module from the truck this morning. I got the new parts in the mail yesterday. 


The coil and module were OEM, stock. That means they have 280,000 miles on them. I had to drill out the rivets holding the coil in place. But I got the bracket apart, cleaned everything else, assembled with the new hardware and put it back in the truck. Half an hour, tops.


Put everything back together and made some runs around the neighborhood. Couldn't feel the weird stutter anymore. And if it was there, the road bumps were just as bad so I didn't notice it.





Ah, what usually fails is the heat-sink holding the coil to the "base", and rust forms between the two. Results in wacky coil behavior.

On 10/29/2017 at 9:24 PM, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

Well, I pulled the trigger. 


Dropped the GMC off at a 4x4 custom shop. Found them after being told "no" by 8 different shops. One phone call and the owner goes, "Hell yeah, we specialize in stupid ideas." 


Gonna drop the Chevy off this week sometime this week. They'll do it within my budget, even. 

Good luck, sometimes smaller shops do a better job.

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44 minutes ago, Meplat said:

Ah, what usually fails is the heat-sink holding the coil to the "base", and rust forms between the two. Results in wacky coil behavior.

Good luck, sometimes smaller shops do a better job.


This was a smaller shop. They specialize in stupid ideas. A quote from the owner, "Hell yeah we can do that. We do stupid shit daily."


They began working on it today. I think there might still be some slight hesitation in the engine but I couldn't really tell during the drive to the shop, which was ten miles away. 


I'm not gonna worry about it until I get the truck back. I'll post pictures of the final product. I've been wanting to fix up my old chevy for five years now. It feels weird to finally be in a place where I can. 

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Had an odd one today.


Ignition coil on my 03 Dakota just up and died, while it was running. Was using the old guy to shuffle some barricades while a crane took down a huge antenna where I work.



OE, 300+K miles on it, just never had a coil just up and die like that.

Replacement was ~30.00 (and made in Poland).

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In Chelyabinsk, a Soviet all-terrain 8x8 vehicle , made from the "Pobeda" was found






   As Ivan Ivanov suggests, the new owner of the "Chelyabinsk krakozyabry", this all-terrain vehicle is the development of Maxim Nikolaevich Melnichenko, the designer of ChTZ, who was the head of the hydrostatic drive group of the tractor factory GSKB ChTZ. Approximate years of construction of the machine - 1950-1951.

   According to available data (which remains to be confirmed), the authors worked on an unusual project proactively, privately, but the design and creation of the prototype was carried out professionally, by the entire team.





   The eight-wheel car futuristic type has rather compact dimensions (length - 4530 mm, width - 1900 mm, height - 1490 mm), articulated construction and riveted aluminum body. The equipped weight is about 600 kg, the wheel formula is 8х8.

   It is curious that the all-wheel drive system is made in a hydrostatic scheme, when the internal combustion engine rotates the hydraulic pump, and the latter drives eight (!) Hydraulic motors - one on each wheel. All wheels have a pumping system, plus you can pull the caterpillars on them.

   The units of GAZ-M20 Pobeda are widely used in the design. Actually,  it was planned to take the engine, but for unknown reasons, the motor was not put on the car. Now the new owner is trying to find out the detailed history of the creation of this all-terrain vehicle.



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On 11/14/2017 at 8:06 AM, LoooSeR said:


Front part of the vehicle doesn't look good IMO. A long horizontal headlight running from left black part to right one would be more interesting visually.

Looks like one of those fancy gizmo splitting wedges. 

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