ApplesauceBandit

3ds Max isn't very nice for telling you how much something will weigh and all that jazz, so I'm probably just going submit eye candy with backstory tacked on.  That was pretty much my original goal anyway, but with less effort in mind on the eye candy part.
 
Some parts still need to be worked on, but I'm fiddling with an extra armor variant as as well.  Edit shows current head-on coverage
 
I also added fenders/stowage space, rearranged wheel positions AGAIN, added a cap for filling up for fuel and other engine goodies, rear doors (subject to change), and a bunch of little tweaks here and there.
 

 

 

3ds Max isn't very nice for telling you how much something will weigh and all that jazz, so I'm probably just going submit eye candy with backstory tacked on.  That was pretty much my original goal anyway, but with less effort in mind on the eye candy part.
 
Some parts still need to be worked on, but I'm fiddling with an extra armor variant as as well.  Edit shows current head-on coverage
 
I also added fenders/stowage space, rearranged wheel positions AGAIN, added a cap for filling up for fuel and other engine goodies, rear doors (subject to change), and a bunch of little tweaks here and there.
 

 

 

3ds Max isn't very nice for telling you how much something will weigh and all that jazz, so I'm probably just going submit eye candy with backstory tacked on.  That was pretty much my original goal anyway, but with less effort in mind on the eye candy part.
 
Some parts still need to be worked on, but I'm fiddling with an extra armor variant as as well.  Edit shows current head-on coverage
 
I also added fenders/stowage space, rearranged wheel positions AGAIN, added a cap for filling up for fuel and other engine goodies, rear doors (subject to change), and a bunch of little tweaks here and there.
 

 

 

3ds Max isn't very nice for telling you how much something will weigh and all that jazz, so I'm probably just going submit eye candy with backstory tacked on.  That was pretty much my original goal anyway, but with less effort in mind on the eye candy part.
 
Some parts still need to be worked on, but I'm fiddling with an extra armor variant as as well.  Edit shows current head-on coverage
 
I also added fenders/stowage space, rearranged wheel positions AGAIN, added a cap for filling up for fuel and other engine goodies, rear doors (subject to change), and a bunch of little tweaks here and there.
 

 

 

3ds Max isn't very nice for telling you how much something will weigh and all that jazz, so I'm probably just going submit eye candy with backstory tacked on.  That was pretty much my original goal anyway, but with less effort in mind on the eye candy part.
 
Some parts still need to be worked on, but I'm fiddling with an extra armor variant as as well.  Edit shows current head-on coverage
 
I also added fenders/stowage space, rearranged wheel positions AGAIN, added a cap for filling up for fuel and other engine goodies, rear doors (subject to change), and a bunch of little tweaks here and there.
 

 

 

I should start cramming to finish mine
 

Starting on the suspension some, changed the internal layout of the guns so it would all fit.  Messing with a lower turret mounting height, but that decreased depression by 1° (-11.5° now).  The gun gets some rangefinder or camera on it now too.
 
 
Edit is for newer layout.  6 bigger wheels instead of 7 smaller ones, internal layout of the guns tweaked so the MG fits properly.  Image of said layout in spoiler
 

I should start cramming to finish mine
 

http://www.tedcruzforhumanpresident.com/

lol

Based on a true story:
 

 

Based on a true story:
 

 

Based on a true story:
 

 

Based on a true story:
 

 

I feel ashamed for only now learning there was a AMX 13 made with a stubby 105mm howitzer in a traditional turret.

Yes, I have a some "hard data" :-)
 
Polish very very primitive NERA for BRDM-2 upgrade, it was study project:
 




 
Offcial statment after tests:
 
 
translate:
 
 
 
 
And second:
NERA layout effectivnes for diffrent energetic material in "bulging plates":
 

 

 
 
 
if You want I can post more resercht like this above.
More or less - typicle SINGLE NERA layer vs typical (copper cone, RDX melt) SC warhed will give circa 22% penetration reduction.  In case other then rubber material - wy have circa 27% reduction for rather NxRA material then pure NERA. Not very impressive?
Vell, in modern tank we have a lot NERA layers:
 

 

 
(my model of known M1A1HA side armour...)

I guess here's the start of a newer thing of mine.  This one isn't going to be the most serious if that's OK, but I'll still try to keep it in the theme of the thread.  I'm basically making something that I like how it looks, then refining it from there.  The T-34-85 I posted earlier today was actually something I already had on hand.
 
I don't even know what gun it has other than "big autocannon".  Didn't have a coaxial MG at first, but I think I may keep it.  Probably would be able to upgrade to a 105mm or a low pressure 120mm if you really wanted.  Hull floor is sloped up near the edges to help with things going boom under it, with the front hull relying a lot on slopes.  Probably going to change the flat bit near the turret.
 
Crew is near the rear, with the turret either being unmanned or low profile.  Things that make the tank go will be more towards the front.  Dunno if the spot on the other side of the driver will be for more of that stuff or ammo or communications stuff or what.
 
Depression and elevation is -12.5°/+30°.  Depression I know works since that's what the bump on the roof is for, but the elevation I'm less sure of.
 

 

 
And yes, the cameras/optics are actually a smiley face in disguise. 

I guess here's the start of a newer thing of mine.  This one isn't going to be the most serious if that's OK, but I'll still try to keep it in the theme of the thread.  I'm basically making something that I like how it looks, then refining it from there.  The T-34-85 I posted earlier today was actually something I already had on hand.
 
I don't even know what gun it has other than "big autocannon".  Didn't have a coaxial MG at first, but I think I may keep it.  Probably would be able to upgrade to a 105mm or a low pressure 120mm if you really wanted.  Hull floor is sloped up near the edges to help with things going boom under it, with the front hull relying a lot on slopes.  Probably going to change the flat bit near the turret.
 
Crew is near the rear, with the turret either being unmanned or low profile.  Things that make the tank go will be more towards the front.  Dunno if the spot on the other side of the driver will be for more of that stuff or ammo or communications stuff or what.
 
Depression and elevation is -12.5°/+30°.  Depression I know works since that's what the bump on the roof is for, but the elevation I'm less sure of.
 

 

 
And yes, the cameras/optics are actually a smiley face in disguise. 

There was a lot of stuff there to take in, but I think this is my favorite part:
 

Size comparisons are fun.

 

 
Edit, while we're on a roll here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Get yourself a nice brass cleaning rod, segmented or one-piece (one-piece rods are less hassle, but harder to find), and an appropriate diameter copper brush (in this case 0.22", they'll be marked as such). Don't bother going out of your way to get the woolly fuzzy brushes, they do very little. Use some kind of appropriate disposable fabric/cloth (shredded t-shirt, makeup removing pads, paper towels, or if you're a square, actual gun cleaning patches), and apply some kind of solvent (Hoppes' No. 9 is the classic, but there's also Barnes CR-10 which works well). After scrubbing with the copper brush, run a solvent patch down the bore. Alternate solvent and dry patches until the barrel is clean, and if it feels like that's not cutting it, apply the copper brush again.

Once you feel like it's clean, apply some kind of oil (not DW-40) to a patch and run it down the bore to coat the bore with oil to preserve it. Then you're done.

A perfunctory cleaning of the barrel is fairly easy. Just rack back the slide so the breach is open. I just use Hoppes No 9 as a cleaning solvent. It's good enough. With the slide back and breach open, use a .22 cleaning rod and run a couple of .22 patches down the barrel dipped in solvent. If you don't have .22 patches, just cut down a larger rifle patch to about 1 by 1 inch. It's no big deal. Doing so, you should see how dirty your gun and how based on whether the patch is black, brown, green or whatever and what the fouling is. If you have a bore light, you can observe the condition of the barrel. If not, a handy trick is just sticking a clean white patch into the breach of the gun, and tilting the breach to a light source while looking down the barrel. (Make sure the fucking thing isn't loaded, obviously). 
 
You might have to take a .22 caliber brass cleaning brush to the barrel, pushing it gently all the way down until it is in the breach and then all the way back. Try not to jiggle it back and forth mid-way. Do so once or twice with an even long stroke. Then clean the rifle again with a clean rifle patch.
 
Repeat the process, back and forth, until the rifle patch comes out clean.
 
Judging by the screw in that picture, that weapon has probably never been completely field stripped or disassembled since the screw heads are unmarred. I recommend very heavily not trying to dissassemble it. 
 
It's kind of fiddly, but instead I would just use your fingers to rub cleaning patches with solvent into all the areas of the action that you can reach. You can use the handy new G-Tips gun cleaning things that are basically just a skookum Q-tip for reaching into dirty little cracks and crevices.
 
On pump action shotguns, I just use an aerosol gun solvent spray to clean the crud out but this idea might not work for you. 
 
Finally, there is the tubular magazine. It should be OK. If you aren't used to handling guns, I wouldn't recommend cracking into that either. Again, if you have a bore light, you can kind of peer in there to see what the innards look like but I doubt there's much corrosion inside.
 
Honestly, judging by the pictures, your dad or granddad seem to have done a good job preserving it. Cleaning the rifle bore and swabbing out the action should be all you need. And then re-oil the necessary moving parts with your standard gun oil (Hoppes works for me again) in order to lubricate the moving parts. If you're storing it, a nice very light coat of oil on the metal parts with a clean cloth helps keep the surface rust away.
 
That's how I'd do it. Obviously, the other guys here have other tricks.

Use the right size cleaning rod for your bore with the steel wire or soft coated brushes, they should be labelled.
 
CLP to oil all the necessary parts (basically any moving parts that are subject to wear), just enough to keep things running, don't be excessive, clean up any excess with a soft dry rag.
 
Use something like Hoppe's #9 with a disposable gun cleaning cloth attached to a cleaning rod (this should come with basically any gun cleaning kit) to swab the barrel of any copper and powder buildups, wear a mask preferably and do it in a ventilated area, that shit is strong as fuck and the fumes will knock you the fuck out.
 
Use a light brush to clean any internal parts, be gentle, but still firm enough to wipe any fouling away, make sure said fouling is all evacuated from the gun and doesn't stay inside.
 
Also, check to make sure the magazine (if not removable) and chamber aren't loaded beforehand, but if I have to tell you this you probably shouldn't be handling a firearm in the first place.

So I finally found the .22 my dad keeps talking about, the one gun in my immediate family, and it's a rather nice looking Winchester Model 61.  Barrel looks like it could be cleaned, but otherwise it's pretty darn good looking.  The finish on the metal and wood looks pretty great still, the metal is just a little worn where the pump slides against it, as well as other places like a on the edge of the butt plate some.  Shitty pictures thanks to my phone. 
 
 
How do you make spoilers?  I tried

So I finally found the .22 my dad keeps talking about, the one gun in my immediate family, and it's a rather nice looking Winchester Model 61.  Barrel looks like it could be cleaned, but otherwise it's pretty darn good looking.  The finish on the metal and wood looks pretty great still, the metal is just a little worn where the pump slides against it, as well as other places like a on the edge of the butt plate some.  Shitty pictures thanks to my phone. 
 
 
How do you make spoilers?  I tried