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Sturgeon's House

Meplat

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Posts posted by Meplat

  1. 4 hours ago, Ramlaen said:

    I work with a guy who was a tank mechanic not so long ago (To where he is looking at re-enlisting in the KYNG).

    I basically said "most of the improvements will be in gunnery and targeting.  You won't see shit in mobility".

     

    Sad to see I'm right. part of me still wants a Laumer style "tank" that masses a few thousand tons, but can make a Ferrarri look slow.

  2. On 2/2/2019 at 5:18 AM, Sturgeon said:

     

    What the fuck kinda pansy ass shit is this? You have to "warn" someone before you shoot them?

    As if the sound of the bolt closing was not warning enough.

     

    Based on Joe Biden's suggestion, I could make a "personal defense unit" that just replicates the sound of a (I assume) Remington 870 shucking a high brass double ought into the smoke-hole.

     

    I mean, "hey, the Veep suggested it".

  3. On 2/4/2019 at 6:53 AM, Sturgeon said:

    This is the expected accuracy standard (not acceptance standard):
     

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    This means you can expect a brand new K98 shooting sS ball to print a group where 94% of shots hit an area 8cm high and 6cm wide at 100m. And for the record, German sniper rifles were just taken off the line, not selected for accuracy or anything!

     

    So basically, these are 3-4 minute guns:

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    "The figures represent average values shot with new rifles. It can not be demanded that every individidual rifle corresponds to these dispersions at every distance"

     

     

    3~4 MOA is a reasonable expectation for an issue weapon.

    It's about what you'd get from "Average Conscript, Mk1Mod1" with a modicum of training and a sound rifle firing reasonable ammo.

     

    Of the Mausers I've owned, only the Swedish variants really impressed me.

  4. On 1/29/2019 at 11:12 PM, Walter_Sobchak said:

     

    I don't know.  I will say that the .50 cal looks kinda fake.

    You'll see that a lot on vehicles in less than gun friendly locations.

     

    "Is that a 2X4, with a chunk of EMT glued to it, masquerading as a M1919?".. Chances are, "Yes, it is".

     

    Check out some of the Youtube vids on MGB81, a British "Motor Gun Boat" that was "restored".  The guns are pretty bad.

    (Admission, I grew up on the Great Lakes, and was corrupted at a young age by a beautifully restored 82' Elco, that had mostly functional armament. What impressed me was it had the original three 1500HP Packard mills churning the sauce. You NEVER forget that sound.)

  5. On 1/31/2019 at 3:30 AM, LoooSeR said:

     

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    I still question the long term durability of wholly electric vehicles, once they become "dumbed down" or "priced down" to where we see them in semi-common use.

     

    ICE powered vehicles will be around for a very very long time.  Were I a reasonably sized automaker, I'd be looking at LPG/Propane, instead of electric.

  6. On 1/20/2019 at 12:56 PM, Xoon said:

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    Finally got the drum on, found the adjuster. 

     

     

    So you believe that replacing  the break fluid from DOT 3 to DOT 4 is safe? 

    It says on the container: "ONLY USE DOT 3". The car is pretty old though, 1995-1999 model. 

     

     

    I do have a oil pump, do you think it could do the same job? 

     

     

    That is true, it makes me feel better, since I would have to remove the rust anyways. Going to remove the rust and weld shut the hole. I am thinking about just gluing on plate though. 

     

    For now I just taped over the hole to stop snow and mud from getting into the channel. Luckily it is not actually the structural channel, just exterior cosmetics. 

     

     

    Yeah, its pretty shit, I am going to get a better tool soon.  And yeah, the concept of "correct torque" is non existent here. A friend of mine literally used all his weight and force to tightened his wheels.  Poor threads. 

     

     

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    I found the adjuster, hidden in between there. Messed with it for a bit. It was adjusted all the way out, explaining why I could not get on the pads. Though it is a pain to accurately adjust loved to jump several teeth. 

     

     

    The problem is that the plug broke, snapped in half. Now the hole is permanently plugged. I either I drill it out and tap a new thread, or I just replace the entire thing. Its only a L shaped metal piece, so I might find the part laying around. 

     

    DOT3 and DOT4 are (as far a 99% of those using either are concerned) interchangeable, and compatable.

     

    A vacuum pulls a constant, that's what you want. You don't need a high vacuum, just a steady one.

    My first "power bleeder" used an old tube evacuator, the stem from a tube, and a pickle jar. And a lot of RTV silicone.

     

    For a temporary fix, score some of the aluminum foil tape used for AC service.  Clean the area well, and put a layer on top and bottom, then bias.

    For a longer term fix,  flattened coffee cans and a pop riveter, plus roofing asphalt will last an amazingly long time.

     

    As to the drain plug, I'd just plan for a new pan. You can still change the oil, you just need a bit of stiff tube that will slip down the dipstick tube, and reach the bottom of the pan. Then use your improvised brake bleeder, scaled up to a 5 gallon bucket with a tight lid.  (This is actually how a lot of modern cars do oil changes, by sucking the oil out the dipstick tube).

  7. 3 hours ago, Xoon said:

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    I took my car into the garage today, to do some general maintenance.  Was going to change the break liquid, but I bought the wrong type. So I tried changing oil, but the drain plug was so stuck and hard to get that I needed to lift the car, and since I lacked the stands to have it on, so waited with that too.  Then I began changing the drum break pads. I could not find the lift point, so in my half hypothermic, half feverish state I mistook the side channel for the lift point and did this:

     

    KE1vULL.jpg

     

     

    After swearing a lot and getting a better jack, I found the correct point and starting dismounting the drum breaks. 

     

    xVPMdww.jpg

     

    Of course, one of the nuts for the wheel got stuck in the wrench, which a had to knock lose with a hammer and screwdriver. 

     

     

    0n41V4r.jpg

     

    After a lot of messing with the breaks to get the got damn pads of, I could not get the drum on.  Furious beyond belief, I went in to defrost and ease my back pain.  Now I feel very sick. 

     

    All in all, a typical day, working on the car in -12 C. 

    Most (SAE/DOT) brake fluids are interchangeable, barring the more exotic fluids like pure silicone, etc.

    That aside, easy way to "change" the fluid is to rig up a suction jar using a vacuum.

    Use a large glass jar, pole two holes in the lid. One for the "inlet" and one for the vacuum.  Use plastic tube, run one long line through the lid, and then a shorter one to the crevice tool of the vacuum. Seal this with tape, and make sure it just pokes through the lid.

    The "suction" line needs to almost reach the bottom of the jar.

     

    Now fire up the vacuum and suck the fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. Add clean fluid.  if you're really worried, stick the end of the sucker hose over the bleeders and crack them with the vac running. Have someone add fluid at the top, and  pull a vac on the jar til you see clean fluid.  Do this on all four wheels.

     

    The damage is from rust.Misplacing the jack just pointed it out.

     

    Four Ways are shit on anything other than solid lugs. Use a socket and breaker bar to get them off (especially since every shop out there loves putting MAXIMUM HAMFIST on the nuts with a 1/2" impact).

     

    Those are the first automotive drums I've seen with no (visible) adjuster.

    Normally you back the adjuster off when installing new shoes, to allow the (likely unturned)  drum to go on easily.  Then you'd mount the wheel, spin it and bring the adjuster up til it drags, then back it off 3~5 "clicks".

     

    See if there is an adjusting wedge on the anchors or similar to allow one to adjust the shoes, and back it off.

     

     

    Oh, and for really stuck drain plugs?

    Buy a new one, then use a big pair of vise grips to take the old one out.  If it starts coming out hard, you have serious issues, and some fuckwit has overtorqued the drainbolt, and you may need a new pan, (or  a Helicoil or to chase the threads with a tap.).

  8. 55 minutes ago, LoooSeR said:

    Volvo: "Safety? Fuck safety, we don't want to spend on safety!"

     

    Volvo 1800ES. 

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      Reveal hidden contents

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    Many foreign makers pulled out of the U.S. market as a result of those dubious "safety" standards.

     

    Ever wonder why some like the MG or the 240/260 Z ended up with silly looking bumpers?

    "Safety Standards". (Meant more to reduce insurance payouts for minor fender-benders, as the telescoping "battering ram" bumpers were useless in much other than the slowest of collisions)

  9. On 12/15/2018 at 2:31 PM, EnsignExpendable said:

    @Jeeps_Guns_Tanks you've probably seen this photo a million times, but I'm adding it as a reference anyway. The stationary gun mantlet is marked as 85 mm thick. Is that the thickness throughout, or is it thinner around the sides? Similar question about the turret, where does the armour change over between 3 inches and 2 inches in thickness?

     

    9f3583ecc5f9180af1739d0fbd93113d.jpg

    Just two bits worth of opinion, but it's a casting, it will thin at the edges to accomodate the fasteners.

  10. 7 hours ago, Oedipus Wreckx-n-Effect said:

     

     

    I do a lot of work on my own, but I will pay someone else to mess with ball joints. Especially ones that are old as shit and seen over 20 winters without getting touched. I don't have a torch or a press, but I do have a shop that will do whatever I want as long as I provide the parts. 

     

     

    Nice thing about new job is, "we have the press used for fitting solid tires to industrial wheels".

    That fucking thing is COMING OUT/ GOING IN, no matter the amount of rust on it.

  11. 3 hours ago, Donward said:

    A VERY comprehensive survey by the Dept of Justice which includes 287,400 prisoners who used a firearm in a crime and how they obtained it. Includes graphs and other info

     

    https://www.bjs.gov/content/pub/pdf/suficspi16.pdf

     

    Highlights

     

    An estimated 287,400 prisoners had possessed a firearm during their offense. Among these, more than half (56%) had either stolen it (6%), found it at the scene of the crime (7%), or obtained it off the street or from the underground market (43%). Most of the remainder (25%) had obtained it from a family member or friend, or as a gift. Seven percent had purchased it under their own name from a licensed firearm dealer.

     

    ...

     

    Among prisoners who possessed a firearm during their offense, 0.8% obtained it at a gun show.

     

    State prisoners with no military service were more likely to possess a gun during their offense (21%) than prisoners who had served in the military (16%).

     

    Almost 3 in 10 (29%) black prisoners serving a sentence in state prison in 2016 possessed a firearm during their crime. White (12%) and Hispanic (21%) state prisoners were less likely to have possessed a firearm during their crime. Similarly, white (17%) and Hispanic (13%) federal prisoners serving a sentence in 2016 were less likely to have possessed a firearm during the crime than black (29%) federal prisoners.

    FIGURES ARE RACIST (Or some such twaddle).

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