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Sturgeon's House

The Small Arms Thread, Part 8: 2018; ICSR to be replaced by US Army with interim 15mm Revolver Cannon.


Khand-e

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Use the right size cleaning rod for your bore with the steel wire or soft coated brushes, they should be labelled.

 

CLP to oil all the necessary parts (basically any moving parts that are subject to wear), just enough to keep things running, don't be excessive, clean up any excess with a soft dry rag.

 

Use something like Hoppe's #9 with a disposable gun cleaning cloth attached to a cleaning rod (this should come with basically any gun cleaning kit) to swab the barrel of any copper and powder buildups, wear a mask preferably and do it in a ventilated area, that shit is strong as fuck and the fumes will knock you the fuck out.

 

Use a light brush to clean any internal parts, be gentle, but still firm enough to wipe any fouling away, make sure said fouling is all evacuated from the gun and doesn't stay inside.

 

Also, check to make sure the magazine (if not removable) and chamber aren't loaded beforehand, but if I have to tell you this you probably shouldn't be handling a firearm in the first place.

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Get yourself a nice brass cleaning rod, segmented or one-piece (one-piece rods are less hassle, but harder to find), and an appropriate diameter copper brush (in this case 0.22", they'll be marked as such). Don't bother going out of your way to get the woolly fuzzy brushes, they do very little. Use some kind of appropriate disposable fabric/cloth (shredded t-shirt, makeup removing pads, paper towels, or if you're a square, actual gun cleaning patches), and apply some kind of solvent (Hoppes' No. 9 is the classic, but there's also Barnes CR-10 which works well). After scrubbing with the copper brush, run a solvent patch down the bore. Alternate solvent and dry patches until the barrel is clean, and if it feels like that's not cutting it, apply the copper brush again.

Once you feel like it's clean, apply some kind of oil (not DW-40) to a patch and run it down the bore to coat the bore with oil to preserve it. Then you're done.

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Get yourself a nice brass cleaning rod, segmented or one-piece (one-piece rods are less hassle, but harder to find), and an appropriate diameter copper brush (in this case 0.22", they'll be marked as such). Don't bother going out of your way to get the woolly fuzzy brushes, they do very little. Use some kind of appropriate disposable fabric/cloth (shredded t-shirt, makeup removing pads, paper towels, or if you're a square, actual gun cleaning patches), and apply some kind of solvent (Hoppes' No. 9 is the classic, but there's also Barnes CR-10 which works well). After scrubbing with the copper brush, run a solvent patch down the bore. Alternate solvent and dry patches until the barrel is clean, and if it feels like that's not cutting it, apply the copper brush again.

Once you feel like it's clean, apply some kind of oil (not DW-40) to a patch and run it down the bore to coat the bore with oil to preserve it. Then you're done.

 

I am the ninja in the night.

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I should also mention that you should use hoppe's 9 away from any heat sources, the main ingredients are basically Kerosene and Methanol, that shit will pretty easily ignite.from even a small heat source from experience.

 

(I think they might've replaced Methanol with Ethanol for safety reasons unless I'm remembering wrong, regardless, it will catch fire, and it irritates the shit out of your skin.)

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I'm not too well versed yet in actually handling firearms, so some cleaning tips for that .22 may be nice.  Barrel for sure needs to be cleaned since it looks like there's some dirt or dust down there.  The gun was my grandfathers when he was younger, but I don't think it's been used since.  It's seen some use, but that would have been a few decades ago.  The bag it's kept in seems to agree with this. 

 

Google should be good enough for some of the stuff, but some pointers wouldn't hurt.  We've already got a cheap gun cleaning kit laying around for it, so I should be covered as far as tools go.

 

 

That cat of mine probably wouldn't mind being close to people being idiots, but I couldn't see him enjoying being actually on the table. I'd hope he doesn't get shot by anyone either.

 

To be fair, my post says it's edited because those pictures all used to be the same size they were on my phone, so 4320 pixels wide.  Whether or not it takes up much space after the forum resizes it, my internet wouldn't like needing to load too many of those at once.  My phone actually loads images and such faster than stuff on my home internet connection does.

 

I don't have too many more posts in the T110 thread than you do, Tied .

 

A perfunctory cleaning of the barrel is fairly easy. Just rack back the slide so the breach is open. I just use Hoppes No 9 as a cleaning solvent. It's good enough. With the slide back and breach open, use a .22 cleaning rod and run a couple of .22 patches down the barrel dipped in solvent. If you don't have .22 patches, just cut down a larger rifle patch to about 1 by 1 inch. It's no big deal. Doing so, you should see how dirty your gun and how based on whether the patch is black, brown, green or whatever and what the fouling is. If you have a bore light, you can observe the condition of the barrel. If not, a handy trick is just sticking a clean white patch into the breach of the gun, and tilting the breach to a light source while looking down the barrel. (Make sure the fucking thing isn't loaded, obviously). 

 

You might have to take a .22 caliber brass cleaning brush to the barrel, pushing it gently all the way down until it is in the breach and then all the way back. Try not to jiggle it back and forth mid-way. Do so once or twice with an even long stroke. Then clean the rifle again with a clean rifle patch.

 

Repeat the process, back and forth, until the rifle patch comes out clean.

 

Judging by the screw in that picture, that weapon has probably never been completely field stripped or disassembled since the screw heads are unmarred. I recommend very heavily not trying to dissassemble it. 

 

It's kind of fiddly, but instead I would just use your fingers to rub cleaning patches with solvent into all the areas of the action that you can reach. You can use the handy new G-Tips gun cleaning things that are basically just a skookum Q-tip for reaching into dirty little cracks and crevices.

 

On pump action shotguns, I just use an aerosol gun solvent spray to clean the crud out but this idea might not work for you. 

 

Finally, there is the tubular magazine. It should be OK. If you aren't used to handling guns, I wouldn't recommend cracking into that either. Again, if you have a bore light, you can kind of peer in there to see what the innards look like but I doubt there's much corrosion inside.

 

Honestly, judging by the pictures, your dad or granddad seem to have done a good job preserving it. Cleaning the rifle bore and swabbing out the action should be all you need. And then re-oil the necessary moving parts with your standard gun oil (Hoppes works for me again) in order to lubricate the moving parts. If you're storing it, a nice very light coat of oil on the metal parts with a clean cloth helps keep the surface rust away.

 

That's how I'd do it. Obviously, the other guys here have other tricks.

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Yeah, I certainly have no intentions of saying goodbye to it since I know it's been in the family for a while.  Either way, it was pleasant to see the positive things people had to say about it and the price for it when I googled it.  I'm hoping to take it out shooting this upcoming week, but I'll need some food for it first.  I don't want to shoot it too much since I'd like it to stay nice and shiny like it is, but I still want to try the thing out.

 

 

The kit has a metal brush for a .22, some Hoppes 9, maybe some cleaning patches, and a couple other things in it, but I'd have to check.  Reading your tips, it sounds like I've got what I'd need.  It's too late tonight for me to do anything about it, but I plan on cleaning this tomorrow along with reading this page again.  The advice is appreciated.

 

My grandfather had a reputation of keeping his stuff in as good of shape as possible, which means he'd go after you if you used a shovel of his and never cleaned it off when you were done.  He passed away when I was in elementary school, so I never had much time to know him, but he seemed super cool.  I don't think my dad's ever touched the gun much at all without my grandfather around, so that's another good way to not break it.  One of my uncles has the rest of my grandfather's guns I believe, so I'll have to ask him about what all is in there when I get the chance.

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So, funnily enough about talking about Hoppes #9 yesterday.

 

Got back from the range today, my wife says she thinks the exterminator used too strong of chemicals because she can still smell them (he was here to spray like last week), I don't really notice, 3 hours pass, suddenly I notice but pass it off, until I start feeling ill, then suddenly it seemed oddly familiar.

 

....I opened my range bag, my bottle of Hoppes #9 cracked at the lip somehow and leaked fucking everywhere inside it, and considering alot of it is cloth and only lined on the inside with cleanable material, not taking chances. rip range bag.

 

Killed in Action.

 

Medium sized range bag.

 

Newish bottle of Hoppes #9

 

Bottle of 35 decibel ear plus.

 

Wounded in action.

 

.40 and .357 caliber gun cleaning and field kits.

 

Shooting gloves (hoping I can wash them without ill effect after they dry)

 

Shooting glasses (comforting thought that your glasses are stained with a product containing Methanol)

 

30 decibel ear muffs.

 

Bottle of CLP.

 

My skin itches like balls after decontaminating what could be salvaged.

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